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Focus: Sourcing/Procurement

Feature Article from Our Sourcing and Procurement Subject Area - See All

From SCDigest's On-Target e-Magazine

- Nov. 20, 2014 -

 
Supply Chain News: Levi Strauss Expands Ethical Sourcing Program to Offer Low-Cost Loans to Offshore Vendors

 

Partnership with World Bank Arm will Offer Even Lower Rates to Top Performers in Labor Practices, Safety and the Environment

 

SDigest Editorial Staff 

 

Iconic bluejeans maker Levi Strauss & Co. is putting some financial muscle behind its on-going ethical sourcing plans, announcing this week a program in which it will partner with the World Bank to offer low cost financing to its vendors offshore.

The company announced on Tuesday that would begin providing lower-cost loans to its 550 or suppliers worldwide, with those who perform best on a series of labor, safety and environmental measures receiving even lower interest rates.

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The 2012-13 incidents, exposed a lot of questionable practices in the soft goods supply chain.

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The special financial program is being rolled out in conjunction with a private sector arm of the World Bank, called the International Finance Corporation. Under the rules of the program, loan rates will be determined on a kind of sliding scale. As suppliers improve conditions for employees and improve environmental performance they will be rewarded with lower interest rates on for the loans, which will provided through a special IFC facility.

The Levi's program began to developed after a series of deadly fires and other accidents at apparel factories in Bangladesh and Pakistan in 2012 and 2013, most notably the 2013 collapse of Rana Plaza factory building in Bangladesh, which left more than 1,100 dead across five companies operating in the facility.

This disaster prompted great scrutiny of international supply chains in the apparel sector, and led to separate programs by groups of largely European and then US retailers and brand companies designed to promote safer working conditions at factories in the region. These programs were planned to offer loans or other financial assistance to those suppliers to improve operating conditions - as well as promises of increased vendor inspections. (See Walmart Announces Own Plan; Bangladesh Tragedy Quickly Results in New Sourcing Rules, as Europe Leads Way While US Retailers Pursue Different Path.)

It is not clear how well those programs have in fact played out since then.

Regardless, Levi's is in a sense now also going it alone with this new program, which is designed to provide even greater incentives to improve conditions by offering better-performing contractors the chance to reduce their cost of capital.

Through the program with the IFC, Levi Strauss suppliers in general will have access to loans at lower rates than they could find in their home countries. But suppliers which score high marks on labor, safety and environmental standards will get a further discount of up to 50 basis points (.5%) on the interest charged.

The 2012-13 incidents, which also included a deadly fire in Pakistan that killed more than 100 workers as well as a series of smaller but still deadly problems at other apparel factories, exposed a lot of questionable practices in the soft goods supply chain. Those included rampant sub-contracting, such that retailers and brand companies really lost track of what companies were making their garments in what factories, and ruthless demands for lower costs from apparel suppliers that they claimed left no money to invest in safer facilities and more generous labor practices.

For example, apparel dust and fibers are known as major fire hazards, yet many facilities in that region were found to have such dangerous debris throughout their factories. At the factory where the deadly Pakistani fire took place, many of the escape routes (doors and windows) were padlocked shut, trapping workers as the fire began to rage.


(Sourcing and Procurement Article Continues Below)

 

CATEGORY SPONSOR: SOFTEON

 


Since then, major retailers such as Walmart and others have apparently tightened up many of their vendor practices, such as forbidding initial suppliers from sub-contract out work from an order without informing Walmart of the move, or prohibiting sending such work to unapproved factories in Bangladesh o elsewhere.

How well these rules are working is also not yet clear.

Levi's is also banking on having longer-term supplier relationships in low cost countries, rather than pursuing the "supplier of the moment" approach that had characterized the industry, with vendor selection based almost solely on price and the ability to deliver the quantities required.

Michael Kobori, Levi Strauss' VP of sustainability, said the company now relies on "fewer, more capable" vendors and adds that the company has had relationships going back an average of 10 years with its top suppliers.

If the pilot with the IFC works, Kobori says Levi's is committed to helping to expand it to the rest of the garment industry, not just its own suppliers, as part of a "global race to the top"in standards.

Levi's has long claimed it has some of the strictest labor standards in the apparel industry, employing a number of full-time inspectors to visit factories around the world. It also is rare among apparel brands in publishing a full list of the factories and suppliers it contracts with.


Ethical Sourcing Program Attributes


Levi's of course is far from the only company to be pursuing so-called "ethical sourcing"programs, but how to build such procurement capability is often not clear.

Recently, the consultants at Capgemini published the model shown below illustrating the key "enablers" of strong ethical sourcing initiatives:

 

Ethical Sourcing Program Enablers

 


But of course, costs remain a major factor in any procurement exercise, at times making ethical sourcing programs a bit of a challenge. Capgemi argues that ethical sourcing can actually often result in lower sourcing costs, as volumes are typically consolidated across fewer vendors with more volume to leverage, while quality and service levels also improve.

There is also the belief - somewhat supported by the evidence - that consumers prefer to buy products that are derived from ethical sourcing programs, such that any cost increases should be more than compensated for by greater sales volumes, or higher price points to gain back any lost margin. This preference is said to be especially high among the so-called millennials generation.

However, the evidence for such buyer preferences to date are mostly based on consumers telling pollsters what they would prefer. Whether that actually translates into real purchase behavior is still a bit of an unknown.


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